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Best 1000+ Yard Rangefinder – Pro Tips to Keep You in Top Performance

Best 1000+ Yard Rangefinder – Pro Tips to Keep You in Top Performance

For a long time, I didn’t need a long-distance rangefinder. In a recent trade deal, I came by a Tikka T3 CTR .308. I checked out some reviews and find I have a reach of about 1,000 yards. I’ll probably never try for game at that distance and I have a lot of work to get to that skill level.

I wanted to get started and I happened to be camped out at a state forest that had a long-distance range. So, the hunt for the best 1000 yard rangefinder began. Finding a quality rangefinder for long-distance that didn’t break the bank and had good reviews wasn’t easy. Here is the list of the best 1000 yard rangefinders I could find

Before you start shopping for a rangefinder there are some things you should consider. Start a list and imagine yourself using it in the field.

  • How far do I want to range this year, next year
  • What is my budget vs. how much should I spend
  • Where will I be using this, back country, open mountains, forested mountains
  • Are you a responsible adult or are you going to destroy your rangefinder a time or two
  • Will this be used in all weather conditions or just premium conditions
  • Do you need to range moving targets
  • How frequently will you use your rangefinder
  • Will you use a tripod with your rangefinder
  • Is a two hand or one hand operable rangefinder better for you
  • Should you match your scope magnifications with your rangefinder
  • What kind of display is better for my eyesight
  • Do you need a rangefinder you can wear glasses with
  • Will you spend long hours looking through optics or are you taking quick readings
  • Are you looking for a rangefinder for bow hunting, rifle, or both
  • Do you want a rangefinder binocular combination
  • Is a one eye piece optic ok for you
  • Will you be using your rangefinder in early morning or evening hours
  • Will you ever need night vision scopes sight for night hunting

Best Rangefinder for 1000 yard

1. LEUPOLD RX-2800 TBR LASER RANGEFINDER

The Leupold RX 2800 has a whole new ranging engine called the Alpha IQ. In short, it has a tighter cluster of laser pulses, but also an increased number of them. It boasts a range of 2,800 yards, that’s over a mile and a half of ranging potential. 

The true ballistic range with wind technology accounts for incline, range to target, and your ballistics information. There is a scan mode option for continuous range updates to keep you on target as you track movement or scan an area.

Hardware has 7 x magnifications, a machined aluminum chassis, is 100% waterproof, fog-proof, shock resistant, has been extreme climate tested and comes with a 2-year warranty. There is a ¼-20 tripod adapter port on the bottom to keep you on range and free up your hands.  

2. NEWCON OPTIK LRM 2200SI

The Newcome Optik only compairs themselves to Leica optics, the best in the business. They claim 98% in comparision for a fraction of the cost backed by a one year warennty.

The Newcon Optik 2200SI has 7 x magnifications with a 25mm objective. It comes with a cleaning cloth, neck strap and carrying case. The built in inclimeter measues angle to object and speed. Aim it and click and you can zero in on your target.

The Newcon Optik LRM has scan mode and can take measurements on moving objects over 5 mph.

3. BUSHNELL ELITE RANGEFINDER

The Bushnell Elite has a reach of 1,760 yards or one mile. With the ARC technology, it will compute and compensate for the angle. It will compute holdover for three ballistic curves in MOA, inches or mill dot. With 7x magnification, you’ll be able to clearly see what you are ranging at that those long distances.

 Multicoated lenses with Bushnell’s weather guard HD resist dust and moisture giving you better clarity and contrast even in wet or foggy conditions. The entire unit is armored in tough abrasion resistant rubberized skin for durability and better grip in wet conditions. Three ranging modes let you range to a specific target, scan or pick out a target obscured by brush. The second-generation ESP processor rapidly computes distance and range computation for rapid target ranging. 

The user can connect to your smartphone and the Bushnell CONX app this will impute the range and angle data and feed into the ballistics calculator for even greater accuracy. Paired with the Kestrel sportsman weather station and applied ballistics engine the Elite CONX will wirelessly feed data to the Kestrel, which is also collecting data from the atmosphere to provide you an exact shooting solution for your environmental conditions, range, and inclination. 

4. UPLAND OPTICS PERCEPTION 1000

Founded in Boise, Idaho by two guys that love to hunt! The Perceptions 1000 laser rangefinder provides readings up to 1000 yards and is accurate to within 1 yard. The 6x zoom magnification with a 17mm objective allows for clear viewing with a lightweight instrument. 

The slim design allows for one-handed operation but still comes with a ¼-20 receiver on the bottom for tripod mounting. The rugged design is built for backcountry and has been water and weather tested. 

The second priority mode helps you zero in on your target through visual noise with minimal problems and maximum quality. 

5. ZEISS VICTORY PRF

The Zeiss Victory PRF is designed a little larger for two-hand operation, giving the user a little more stability when taking those long readings. This ranger is rated from 10 to 1300 yards depending on the reflection of the object you are targeting. Field testing highly reflective items has reached out to 1400 yards and big game readings at about 950-yard range. 

The 8x magnification is significantly higher than most units on the market. The added power is extremely handy when trying to focus in on game at those longer readings. The PRF is rated at 4 seconds to generate readings, but field testing rarely goes beyond 2 seconds. 

The unit is equipped with a ballistics information system, giving you the correct bullet drop depending on your setup. You can choose between 100 and 200-yard zero and six different ballistic charts for each. 

To range on a moving target you simply press and hold the reading button for three seconds and the unit will switch into scan mode. The Victory PRF has an integrated built-in snow mode that automatically cuts through rain, snow, and fog to give you spot-on readings. 

6. LEICA GEOVID 10×42 

Leica was the first company to offer laser rangefinders to the civilian market in 1992 and has been the placeholder for the best quality ever since!

 The Geovid comes with a unique ballistics calculator that allows the user to program your own ballistic curve.  The Geovid also offers a scan mode to take values at moving targets or for taking values as you move the unit.  These binocular rangefinders are no toys! They weigh in at over two pounds and are made of a magnesium body and protective shock-absorbing rubber armoring, ensures a comfortable and secure grip. The Geovid is completely waterproof and nitrogen filled, guaranteeing comfortable viewing under any weather condition by preventing fogging from inside.

 The 10x magnification lets you take a look at what you’re ranging and the 42mm objective is nice. The comfortable eyecups make them a comfortable fit for any use. These are the best of the best! 

7. VORTEX OPTICS RANGER

This is the rangefinder for folks who want a quality product in a compact package. It has reach of 1800 yards but is small enough to fit in a front shirt pocket. The unit is accessorized with a belt clip that can be moved to either side as does the lanyard attachment. 

The 32mm lens is comfortable on the eye, but the 6x magnification does leave something to be desired when compared to the 8x or 10x. 

The Vortex Optics Ranger comes with two ranging modes, horizontal component distance or line of sight mode. The continuous scan mode is great for taking values of moving targets or taking swinging range. The red LED instead of black makes it easy to read in high light conditions. It comes with a built-in ¼-20 tripod adapter for added stability. No matter what happens to the device or where you purchased it from you’re covered with a lifetime warranty. 

8. NIKON LASERFORCE RANGEFINDER BINOCULAR

The Nikon Laserforce is an ED glass binocular, paired with rangefinder capabilities with a range of 1900 yards reflective, 1400 tree and 1100 deer. The 10 x magnification is great for that long-range visual reach and that 42mm lens so you can glass for hours without eye stress. 

The unit is waterproof, fog proof and shockproof. Built-in incline and decline technology helps when your shooting in those mountain areas or up in a tree. You have the option for an 8 second continuous reading for ranging in a wide field of vision. The long consistent eye relief is also a great feature for those long days glassing the slopes.  You’re backed with Nikon’s no-fault warranty policy.  

Back to the top

Go back to the top or review your list of most important things to consider before making your purchase. Hopefully you itemized your list of most important things.

Top of this list for me is a lifetime warranty. I try really hard to take care of things, but I also tend to be somewhat abusive. The type of warranty also speaks of the reputation of the company. My second consideration is the company itself. As in, who is the real authority on the product? I want a company who has been in business for a while and who has gained a reputation.

Check product reviews, check YouTube videos, check multiple websites and cross reference products. This may seem like somewhat tedious work but it will pay off in the long run. You get what you pay for and a rangefinder is no exception!

Pro tips to keep you in top performance

  • Adjust the eyepiece to the best clarity before taking a reading
  • Take multiple readings of the same object to verify any changes
  • Use trees, rocks and other more reflective objects close to your target to verify your readings
  • After settling in to your position take multiple readings of your surroundings, do this several times
  • Test your unit and manually verify accuracy at time of purchase and before field use
  • Keep cleaning cloth handy and use it while in the field
  • Don’t allow your rangefinder to rattle or bang around while on course to your location
  • Never take your rangefinder apart! A lot of them are nitrogen filled and water sealed
  • Test your rangefinder in foul weather before taking it in the field
  • Test ALL your rangefinders functions
  • Understand your rangefinders shortcomings and strengths
  • Make sure who ever is calling range is using the same rangefinder the shooter uses
  • Calibrate the rangefinder in new areas and new terrain
  • Keep extra batteries handy when in the field
  • Practice taking readings off of shootable objects you don’t intend to shoot
  • Range for where you want to take your shot, not just where the animal is now

I would start with how often are you going to use it and in what kind of conditions. If hunting or sport shooting is going to be a serious pursuit for the rest of your life you might want to dig deep in that wallet and get the best you can find. If you are just dabbling then maybe stick with something a little tighter on the budget. There is quite a range to this list; these were the best 1000 yard rangefinders I could find on the market right now. In ten years we’ll probably be able to get an eyeball implant. 

How To Mount, Level and Zero Your Precision Rifle Scope

How To Mount, Level and Zero Your Precision Rifle Scope

All you need in this article, i will cover these steps and the process that I go through to mount a scope on the rifle, get it leveled and also get a zeroed and on paper.

To start off, I have a tracked toric ultra HD, this one is the MOA version. It is a first focal plane scope, it is a 4-20 power and it has a great MOA reticle in there. It has a zero stop, the turrets are some of the best that I’ve ever felt.

It parallax’s down to 25 yards, it’s illuminated and it has locking turrets as well. It’s a really awesome scope, it has shot HD German glass and the finish on this scope is beautiful to go along. With that scope, I also have a bubble level which I got from tracked, it’s available on their site. If you want to take a look and I also got iota triad rings. These rings are special, they’re pretty cool. The key way that fits into the Picatinny rail of the rifle is modular, what I mean by that is the bar that goes left to right across the gun has different thicknesses to make it fit perfectly in your Picatinny rail. That way under recoil, your scope rings will not shift front to back on your rifle even under the most extreme circumstances.

I’ve had other scope rings where this happens and if yours don’t fit perfectly, before you tighten them onto the rifle, place them on your Picatinny rail and push them towards the muzzle of the gun. That way under recoil, the metal surfaces are already touching and it will not get pulled off in the wrong direction.

On my rifle, I have a 30 MOA scope base which is a little bit more than most people run, traditionally it’s 20 but mine is 4 and our key outdoors I went with 30 I considered going with our 40 as well. So if that’s something you’re interested, it’s a full Picatinny rail for the tikka and this one also has a recoil lug. That way with under recoil, it’s not trying to shear off the hardware, that’s holding the scope on top of the base. So when installing your rings, be sure to check your user guide, the iota triad rings did come with instructions and it did supply a torque spec for them. So I used a torque wrench and put them down to the torque spec which they suggested 25 inch pounds. Once you have the front and rear on the scope base, I mount those on the scope base first and then I will place the scope onto the rifle. Make sure and place your scope into the Rings before tightening them down.

Making sure that the Rings do not go too far to where they’re riding on the Bell of the scope where they would cause your scope damage. I try and get them as far apart as possible and on top of this base on my rifle. I’m able to get to the very edge of both sides which I prefer another great feature of these iota of triad rings is that the hardware mounts from the bottom side up providing a clean look which I really like. The hardware will not collect water and rust out over time everything should fall out of it and the top of it just looks better.

They are pretty close to the same finish, they’re a dark matte graphite gray. It’s a really cool color I really dig it. So at this point, you’ve got your scope rings on the rifle, go ahead and get them torque to spec to your base. Once you find out which length and which setting you want so that you can get your scope on there safely without clamping onto the bail of the scope. The iota triad rings that clamp on to the base you they supply a torque spec of 25 inch pounds which I went ahead and used my torque wrench for. At this point, take your caps for your rings, drop those on top, put in the hardware on both sides. All four but don’t tighten it up yet, make it to where the sky is still able to shift left and right, that way we can go out and get the scope leveled with the rifle and then also get the bubble level attached to the scope and get that leveled to both of those. Definitely check and see.

  • If the bottom portion of your bubble level will fit through before you get your scope mounted between the base and the scope tube.
  • If it doesn’t, now is the time to put it on before you talk with it. Before you torque down your scope caps, I highly suggest getting a bubble level, it will help you with your accuracy and long-range shooting.
  • If your rifle is canted at all or you’re inconsistent with where you’re holding your rifle, you’re gonna get some weird variations and you’re gonna be missing left and right. Depending on what you can’t you go with.

Now it’s time to get the scope, the bubble level and the rifle all leveled together.

So the first step I did when I took it out to the garage in front of my plumb bob, I set the rifle mine has a locking bipod for Kant, so I’m able to lock it left and right wherever I want.

If you’re unable to do this, shim your bipod with maybe some books or maybe a beanbag or whatever you can do set your rifle on a backpack, whatever you need to do to get it leveled. I put a bubble level on my Picatinny scope base for the rifle level that’s where I decided,that’s where my rifle will be leveled off . Once I’ve found the center of that bubble level off the Picatinny base, I will lock my bipod in at which point, I will then look through the scope at the plumb bob and i will get that scope dead-on level with that plumb bob in accordance with the rifle being level as well at that point, i will torque down the scope cap rings, not to spec, just to snug them up and then I will start working on getting my bubble level to represent where the rifle scope is level as well.

The reason to do a scope bubble level and not just a level that’s in a chassis is the second that you take your scope out of the Rings. If you don’t have a bub attached to it, your scope is no longer level and you have to repeat this process. If you put a bubble level on the scope even if I take it out of these rings and drop it into a completely different system, I know that that level represents when the reticle and the tracking of this scope is dead-on with gravity. The reason that we go off a plumb bob is gravity is pulling that plumb bob straight down in line with gravity you want your reticle set up in that exact same line, because when you fire, your bullet is going to be pulled down straight in line with gravity, so what I do to do a bore sight is I leave my phone set up in this. Now looking through the scope, I will actually record a video and speak out loud as I look through the bore whether its Center maybe left, right, top, bottom of the circle of the barrel. I have a roof vent exactly at a hundred yards up here in a neighbor’s house. So I’ve set up in the kitchen which my life with my wife loves and I look over at the roof vent on a neighbor’s house, I drop the cheek piece, I’ve taken the recoil pad off just because it would block my view through the bore.

Now I can understand that most people will not have this setup so all you have to do is get your rifle set up with traditional bipod whatever you got. You can use like books individual sheets of paper if you want to get that crazy with it notepads, shooters medics work great like little beanbags and just settle in exactly where you want. If you’re doing that then you want to get your boar perfectly centered on an object. Hopefully they do a hundred yards, something that mostly fills the bore you kind of want an outside edge to see where you’re looking at and then you look through your optic without moving the rifle and adjust it around, so you just have left-right up-down whatever you need to do compared to where your rifle sitting definitely continuously switch back and forth. Looking through your board, looking through your scope, making sure your board still looking in the same spot, get your stove zeroed on to what you’re looking for and I should get you on paper.

I often start at 50 yards, sometimes I go out to a hundred yards but I’ll give you an example of looking for the scopes. I’m just moving the butt of this of the rifle around left and right and then I will just say Center when the rifle is centered and what I’m looking at is in the middle of the bore super simple. Sometimes your eyes get a little bit drained out so just kind of blink look away for a little bit and then get back to it get your scope for sighted.

We’ve got our rifle bore sighted now to the best of my abilities, we’re gonna take it out, we’re gonna go out to 100 yards then we’re going to get it on paper zero it and we should be ready to rock and roll. This thing will be you’re ready to shoot and level mounted and zeroed let’s get to it

We just fired our first group our first round landed five right and three high so I adjusted five left and three down and it put us within an inch of that crosshair and then I fired a group there to see.

If it was going to consistently hit near the center, let’s go take a look at this target and we’ll see how we did.

The great thing about this tract optic you’re able to measure and make corrections just within the reticle at any range what it tells you there because its first focal plane, it doesn’t matter if you’re at 50 yards or a hundred yards, 5m away equals, 5m away on the turrets, you don’t have to do any math like on a second focal plane, you have to double the amount of clicks you do at 50 yards versus a 100 yards, this makes it so easy and simple. The reticle is designed really great and easy to make adjustments so let’s go take a look at this target, our first shot like I say landed high and right which is up here and then our follow-up shots are just about a half inch left of dead center and it’s exactly 1 MOA high. So I’m gonna bring that down one more MOA and I’m going to bring it right to half and that’s probably just bad measurement on my account through the reticle, so really exciting got my scope zeroed. It’s track made it super easy.

VETERAN WWII Veterans

VETERAN WWII Veterans

WWII is an abbreviation of World War II, also referred to as the Second World War. WWII was a long bloody war that lasted for 6 years, 1 day, from 1st of September 1939 to 2nd of September 1945, which took place in Europe. 

It encompassed most of the world nations dividing them into two military groups named the Axis (Germany, Italy, and Japan) and the Allies (Great Britain, the United States, France, the Soviet Union, with a small percentage of China). 

The main reasons for WWII were global economic depression, Versailles’ agreement, intention to revenge by the Germans following WWI, the Nazi philosophy, the upswing of military defense in Japan and Germany, and appeasement loss. 

Adolf Hitler rose to superiority in Germany, intending to create a new racial order in Europe overseen by their race and then led Germany to invade Poland on the 1st of Sept. 1939 from the west, and the war started. Britain and France proclaimed war on Germany 2 days later, while the Soviet Union also infested Poland from the east on Sept. 17th.

Until the Japanese blew up the United States convoys and their establishments throughout Asia on December 7, 1941, the United States didn’t partake in the war. Japan planned the United States Pacific convoys’ attack to restrict them from infringing their planned attacks in Southeast Asia on the overseas colony, the United States, and the United Kingdom.

Japan would have succeeded with its sovereignty over Southeast Asia if the United States didn’t participate in the war, and the war would have been longer than it did. If the United States had participated in the war earlier like the other Allies, they might have been forced to a cease-fire and negotiate peace. The advantage of the United States engaging the war, later on, was the ability to sponsor the war until victory was accomplished.

The axis started losing the war in 1943, in which Italy had to switch sides to join the Allies. This started when millions of forced laborers governed by Germany across Europe made huge resistive movements against the Germans. Italy also proclaimed war on its former Axis ally (Germany) on October 13th, 1943. Italy’s switch to be a part of the Allies became official on September 8th when they let the Allies step on their soil in Salerno, Southern Italy, and united to attack the Axis.

Germans had already known that they had lost the war by the final quarter of 1943. They had to surrender completely when the Allies infested Germany, and Adolf Hitler was forced to commit suicide in 1945. On May 8th, 1945, the Allies officially accepted their surrender, one week after Hitler’s suicide. By then, Japan did not surrender until the summer when the United States shocked them with the atomic bomb’s miracle weapon. They were also forced to surrender in 1945, and WWII was officially ended.

Who is a Veteran? A veteran is a soldier or any person who has been of service in the military for a long time of any branch, be it the army, the navy, the air force, and retired or honorably discharged. Being a veteran is not limited to the male gender only, but also to the female gender being a soldier or not. You don’t need to shoot guns or kill someone in the military to become a veteran. For example, the women who offered their service and support to their nation as nurses during world war II are also considered veterans. The interesting fact is that women were not acknowledged as veterans until WWII came to pass.

Granddaughter of a WWII veteran shirt

The female child of one’s child is known as a granddaughter. As an old adult, nothing should be more valuable to you than helping your grandchildren follow the right path to grow fundamentally. As a granddaughter of a WWII veteran, you have automatically inherited a better life, family respect, and some life benefits such as access to free health care. Getting a granddaughter of a WWII veteran shirt is a way to show appreciation to our brave grandparents. If your veteran raises you as their child instead, you will get full benefits like their children.

Daughter of a WWII veteran shirt

One’s female child is known as a daughter. As a daughter of a WWII veteran, you have inherited a better life from your father or mother’s bravery because there are life benefits for you, such as education, health care, loans, financial aids, and prestige. Besides, it added value to your bridal right. Note that daughters of WWII veterans are married now. Getting a daughter of a WWII shirt is the least way to show your appreciation.

Son of a WWII veteran shirt

One’s male child is known as a son. As a son of a WWII veteran, you have inherited a better life from your father or mother’s brave act. Note that sons of WWII veterans are now grown up adults with an average of 45 years. If you are one of them, just acknowledge that you have benefited from financial aids, loans, free access to health care, life insurance, and education support through their commitment to the nation. You have also earned much respect and been paved ways of joining the military without stress. You should be proud of them. Show them great honor by getting and repping a son of a WWII veteran shirt. It is the least you can do.

Wife of a WWII veteran shirt

Being a wife of a WWII veteran is something so much to be proud of. WWII is the deadliest war in world history so far. No wife was sure that her husband would make it back home alive. It cost them a lot of mental toughness and emotional intelligence, taking care of their children with too many tears rolling off their faces. 

You should always celebrate yourself also. Getting a wife of a WWII veteran shirt is the least means to make you and your husband proud. This shirt will boost your confidence and earn you respect wherever you go.

Proud granddaughter of a WWII veteran shirt

Suppose you have always been attending and committed to honorable programs to eulogize your WWII veteran grandparent, representing and upholding their honor. In that case, you are a proud granddaughter of a WWII veteran. Getting a proud granddaughter of a WWII veteran shirt is a way to show it, which will add to your confidence. This shirt is cotton made, comfortable, and soft.

Proud daughter of a WWII veteran shirt

Suppose you have always been attending and committed to honorable ceremonies that eulogize your WWII veteran parent, upholding their honor. In that case, you are a proud daughter of a WWII veteran, and you’re indirectly laying a respectful legacy for his or her next generation, your children. Repping a proud daughter of a WWII veteran shirt is the easiest way to manifest it, which would boost the entire family’s confidence at an event. This shirt is cotton made, soft, and comfortable.

In conclusion, it should be mandatory for every family to have a person to represent their WWII veteran(s) at every honorable ceremony so that they will never be forgotten. They deserve a lot more.

Red Dot & Scope – Which is the Best for AR 15

Red Dot & Scope – Which is the Best for AR 15

Red dots verse scopes which is gonna be best for your rifle. So if you’re new to ar-15s and you’re thinking about mounting an optic on your rifle, you might be debating whether or not to go with a budget red dot or a scope. They’re both great options as you can see I have both on the table here but they also come with their own unique strengths and weaknesses. It really depends on the primary purpose of your rifle. Today we’re going to compare these two optics choices and to do that we’re going to be looking at four different categories:

  • Speed
  • Accuracy
  • Weight
  • Reliability

And hopefully you’re gonna have a clearer idea of which optic is gonna be best for your rifle.

So let’s jump into it guys, give me your full attention right now because here we go alright so the first category is speed and the advantage here has to go to the red dot sight.

Red dots are simply built for speed when you look at the way they’re designed first of all. They don’t have any eye relief so your eye can really sit anywhere and still see clearly through the optic. They also usually have a very simple reticle that’s gonna be very visible because it’s a bright red dot. Sometimes the reticle is actually designed to give you more speed.

Red dots also don’t have any magnification which can be beneficial if you intend to shoot with both eyes open. Now on the other hand scopes tend to be a little bit slower and I think there are really two main factors that contribute to this.

The first factor is that scopes require eye relief, so unless you put your eye at the correct distance away from the scope you’re going to have trouble seeing through the optic and the second factor is magnification. We’re talking about scopes with a low setting of one power. The problem is most scopes with a one power setting aren’t truly one power, oftentimes they are one point one or something along those lines. So using them with both eyes open may end up being a little tricky for you but before moving on I do want to say that you can be pretty fast with a scope of this type.

The next category is accuracy, see now obviously a major part of being able to shoot accurately is seeing, and magnification allows you to see smaller at distance, so the advantage here has to go to the scope.

Now this scope in particular is a primary arms 1-6x and you can imagine just how much easier it is to make a shot at say 200 yards on six power as opposed to being on one, and with this scope in particular it has something called the a CSS reticle which basically shows you where you need to aim if your targets at 300 yards all the way up to 800 yards. This is my favorite low-end scope because that a CSS reticle is awesome.

Now obviously with no magnification red dots are gonna be at a disadvantage here, especially if you’re like me and you don’t have perfect eyesight. But before moving on here I do have to mention that there are some amazing shooters out there who are really capable of stretching out the range of their red dots.

The third category is gonna be weight, now there are so many different brands of scopes and red dots that it’s really hard to make these types of generalizations about them, so we’ll just use my two examples here to really show some of the differences.

Hollow Sun

The Hollow Sun kind of represents the category of micro red dot sights and the primary arms here represents the category of 1-6x powered scopes.

This Hollow Sun weighs in at just over 4 ounces and the primary arms 1-6x weighs about 16 ounces, so it’s pretty obvious just by looking at the two which one is gonna weigh less, and if you’re looking to shave off a few ounces from your AR, a micro red dot sight is definitely the way to go.

And last we have reliability once again. There are many different brands of optics out there and they all have different price points and different degrees of reliability.

However just to generalize for the comparison. I’m gonna give the edge and reliability to the scope. Reason why is simply because the reticle of the scope doesn’t rely on batteries, and even though there are many red dots out there with amazing battery life. You still have the possibility of the battery going dead or some other type of with the electronics. Whereas with a scope the reticle is etched into the glass so even if your scope does use batteries to light up the reticle. It doesn’t matter if they run out because you can still use the optic. But just to add on to that, one way to counteract reliability concerns with any optic is to mount backup iron sights on your rifle. And you can see I like to use these mag poles because they work well and they’re pretty affordable. So to bring everything to a close here’s my conclusion.

If you intend on having a lightweight carbine that’s fast into action and good from zero to a hundred yards, go with a red dot sight. You can find more infomation on Barrettrifles.com if you are planning to buy a red dot sight.

But if you’re willing to sacrifice a little bit of weight and a little bit of speed for more capability at distance, go with a low powered variable scope. Check this guide for more details on the best scope for ar-15s

And if you want the best of both worlds just be like me and get both.

Whether you’re looking for more speed or more accuracy, neither type of optic is going to automatically make you a better shooter, but if you’re looking to improve your fundamentals I have a free guide that shows you how to improve your shooting without leaving your home or spending a dime. It’s a very simple exercise that I’ve used to improve my own shooting and I still use it as practice today.